Achtung! Dumkopf tandemists!

How are you?
"At least navigation will be easy – all we need to do is keep the sea on our left", we agreed as we arrived in Denmark to ride down the National Route 9 to Copenhagen.  So we got lost one minute after getting off the ferry and rode up an unnecessary and quite steep hill (yes, they do have them).  However, things improved after that and we stopped at Louisiana – a modern art gallery North of the capital – around mid morning.  They were having an exhibition of work by Danish artist Per Kirkeby (look him up) who is hot stuff in his home land but sadly not our cup of cultural tea. The permanent exhibitions were better, though, with work by Warhol, Picasso and some other people you won’t have heard of.  Then we headed in towards Copenhagen, caught in the first rain we’ve had for about 3 weeks.  It really came down and we were well soaked.  Then we got lost again on the outskirts of the city and ended up heading right into the centre.  With our usual impeccable timing we arrived in rush hour.  What an experience!  Traffic is pretty heavy anyway but the volume of bikes is something else.  You need to keep your wits about you and learn the rules pretty quickly, especially through the junctions.  Locals do all this whilst having mobile phone conversations but we did it with our hair standing on end!
Copenhagen – what a place!  We didn’t enjoy it from the bike but went back the next day on the train to see it again and enjoyed it very much.  We turned into complete tourists, following the marching band to the Changing of the Guard, taking a trip on a tourist boat round the canals and gawping like country hicks at things like neon lights  and buildings with more than three storeys.
Further south things were much more calm.  We got another good soaking though before our arrival in the village of Barse (you need a little circle over the a) pronounced "Borsa" where we were welcomed like lost family by Karen and Svend Olsen.  They also alerted us to the fact that the little ferry we were expecting to catch from the island of Mon to the island of Falster doesn’t run at this time of year, thus saving us a major detour and a lot of grief.  They also very kindly took us on a tour of Mon, making up for our disappointment.  It has fantastic chalk cliffs and in the bright sunshine it dazzled like a tropical beach.
Karen also cooked us lovely meals and we had all sorts of lovely things like sheets and towels.  Bliss!
From there it’s only been two short days and a ferry trip to our current destination which is Rostock in Germany.  We’ve now ridden the whole of Scandanavia from top to bottom, covered 3,600 km and deserve a cake so we are going to find one in the magnificent old town.  Sorry it’s only short but internet access is about to expire.
Keep in touch and don’t forget to sponsor us!
Love from Neil and Kathryn
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